This month, against the backdrop of the Caucasus Mountains, a unique four-day festival in Georgia celebrated its tenth anniversary. Held annually in August, the multi-disciplinary One Caucasus festival aims to rediscover a spirit of unity and cooperation that once flourished among the diverse nations of the region.
Earlier this month Georgia was the theme of the Europalia biennial in Belgium. With a rich history of art, culture, dance, and music of its own, it was therefore encouraging to see that one of the performers from the country was the ethnic Azerbaijani Ashiq Nargile. This was a welcome inclusion of a representative of Georgia’s largest ethnic minority in the programme.
Nestled within the lush green landscapes of Georgia’s Kvemo Kartli region, the municipality of Gardabani is home to many from the country’s largest ethnic minority: Azerbaijanis. Here, despite concerns of dwindling numbers, the age-old Turkic tradition of wandering minstrels has continued. Known as ashiqs, these troubadours are skilled in the art of performing poetry over music, usually performed on the saz, a stringed instrument resembling a long-necked lute.
A lively crowd of passionate fans eagerly gathered outside Elektrowerk, a repurposed Soviet-era factory in Tbilisi’s Isani district, last weekend. They were here to see[ME1] punk legends, The Exploited who had come from delivering electrifying shows in Yerevan and Istanbul just days earlier. Now they were bringing raw energy, rebellious spirit, and a dose of punk-infused chaos, to the Georgian capital.
“As movement towards an agreement between Armenia and Azerbaijan gathers momentum, a multi-track approach needs to emerge in order to make any peace more sustainable,” writes Onnik James Krikorian for commonspace.eu. “Governments, local communities, and the non-governmental sector should be partners and not rivals.”
The Caspian Post has published my article, accompanied by photographs, on the influx of alternative Russian musicians to Tbilisi following Putin’s further invasion of Ukraine last year. It’s a continuation of my work on the underground rock, metal, and punk scene in all three countries of the South Caucasus since 2001 and especially my personal project, Tbilisi Underground. The punk scene in Georgia, incidentally, has always been unique, but the arrival of often political bands from Russia and beyond has arguably diversified and reinvigorated it.
I almost missed Saturday’s gig by veteran Georgian punk band Vodka Vtraiom, but thankfully stumbled upon. the announcement of the event held at Tbilisi’s Dirty Habit bar with just two hours to spare. Kesha, the band’s vocalist had arrived in Georgia a day earlier and this was the first gig by the band in what must be almost three years.
Because of the COVID-19 pandemic I’ve not been going to many indoor gigs in Tbilisi at all. Indeed, I think I’ve only been to one in almost two years since the pandemic began, and that was only for the new year that recently passed if you don’t count special events staged for live-streaming with a skeleton and select audience. However, I have been to two outdoor events, last in December, another last June, and also another special live-streamed event.
Although I’ve been to two specially organised live-streamed metal events co-organised with the Tbilisi Municipality during the COVID-19 pandemic, I haven’t really been to any proper gigs. The last event closest was a do-it-yourself punk festival held at the Hippodrome in June that was attacked by a small group of neo-Nazi Georgian teens.