Catholic Armenians in Tbilisi, Georgia

Catholic Armenians in Tbilisi, Georgia

Catholic Church, Tbilisi, Georgia © Onnik James Krikorian 2013

One thing I like about Georgia is its diversity. Even though over 80 percent of the population is ethnic Georgian — albeit with diversity even among themselves and an incredibly strong culture — ethnic Azeris at 6.5 percent of the population and ethnic Armenians at 5.7 percent are the two largest minority communities.

So, when Molly Corso, a journalist based in Tbilisi and currently researching an article on Catholic Armenians in Georgia, sent out the following message I was naturally interested.

A very active Armenian Catholic priest in Tbilisi is looking for a native English speaker to speak with children during the church’s Saturday youth group. It is a cool group of people, who work with Armenian youth, teaching them music, arts and crafts, and Armenian language. The children know some English and he would like give them the chance to speak with a native.

Anyway, if you are interested or know of someone who might be, please let me know off list.

Maybe I should make it my New Year’s Resolution to change that in 2014.

About 10 years ago I had come across pockets of Catholic Armenians in Georgia’s Samtske-Javakheti region and in 2007 I also wrote an article on the return of the Mekhitarist Fathers, Catholic Monks who were exiled from Armenia centuries ago. As Armenians are mainly Apostolic Christian, the idea of documenting Armenian Catholics, a “minority within a minority” as Molly put it, was particularly interesting.

Beginning in the late 1920s, persecution caused many Armenian Catholics to flee their homeland in order to settle in Georgia and Ukraine. In 1991, after the fall of the Soviet Union, the Bishop of Rome, Pope John Paul II merged the churches in Georgia and Ukraine with those in Armenia, creating a new eparchy of Armenia and Eastern Europe. A small seminary was established in Gyumri, Armenia, during 1994; there candidates for the Priesthood engage in basic studies before moving to the Pontifical College of the Armenians (established 1885) in Rome where they pursue philosophy and theology. At the same time Catholic Armenians in Georgia de facto entered the newly formed Eastern European Diocese, which was formed in 1991, with its residence in Gyumri. The city was not chosen by chance. Most of the Catholic Armenians live in the northern parts of the Armenia. This has become a kind of basis for fence-mending with the coreligionists on the other side of the border. Today Catholic Armenians of Samtskhe-Javakhq live together in Akhaltsikhe and in the nearby villages, as well as in the regions of Akhalkalak and Ninotsminda. The communities of the last two regions, which are mainly rural, are on rather distant territories, but the most important interlink is the historical memory about Catholicism.

Moreover, by helping out with the kids’ English, I could also hopefully give something back. So, today I arranged to meet Molly and visit the priest in a house, complete with chapel, where Armenian kids also receive extra-curricular education. Although numbers are unclear, as many as 100 people apparently visit the house when there’s a service.

Up to 70 kids attend classes.

Armenian Catholic Church Service, Tbilisi, Georgia © Onnik James Krikorian 2013

Only spent about 45 minutes there discussing my first English-language class next Saturday, but also managed to find about 20 minutes to take a few pics. Naturally, there will be more will come, but in the meantime if anyone else is interested in helping out with native language English classes or practical sessions get in touch and I’ll connect you to the relevant people.

And talking of minorities in Georgia, after holding many workshops on new and social media for Georgian journalists and civil society activists, sometimes with the occasional minority participant among them, I’ll be holding two specifically for minorities in the next two months. Really looking forward to that too.

Tbilisi, Georgia © Onnik James Krikorian 2013

Yezidis in Armenia

Yezidis in Armenia

 EUMM/IWPR Cross Boundary Workshop for Journalists, European External Action Service (EEAS), Brussels, Belgium © Onnik James Krikorian 2016

Recently EurasiaNet reported that Yezidis in Armenia have requested the authorities in Yerevan assist their counterparts in Iraqi Kurdistan who are experiencing violent attacks from Kurds for selling alcohol. Despite non-Muslims apparently being allowed to do so, militias are reportedly attacking shops owned by Christians and Yezidis.

Sasha Sultanian, head of Armenia’s Yezidi National Committee, has announced that the group plans to ask the Armenian foreign affairs and Diaspora ministries to promote awareness of the Iraqi Yezidis’ situation “in international organizations and [help] prevent the massacres,” Armradio reported.

 

Several hundred thousand Yezidis are estimated to live around the world; the largest number in Iraq. Their religion is a blend of Zoroastrian, Muslim, Christian and other religious traditions. The central figure in the faith is a peacock angel Malek Taus, who dispenses both blessings and misfortunes as he finds fit.

However, one problem here is that no individual or group can claim to represent Armenia’s largest minority or speak on behalf of a very divided community. Much of the reason for this can be found in yet another spat between some Yezidis and Kurds, but this time over identity. Despite official Yerevan considering them a separate group, most others refer to them as ethnic Kurds.

One notable source on the Yezidis commented on Sultanyan’s remarks in private communication. Because of his position in Iraq, it is posted on the condition of anonymity: 

I think Sasha Sultanian is exaggerating the story. He doesn’t define Iraq geographically because the story is not the same everywhere. For example, most restaurants and bars in Kurdistan are run by Yezidis and there are no, or very little, problem. However, some Yezidis do face some difficulties in Kurdistan, but mainly because of selling alcohol and not because of their religion. But the story is different in the Arab controlled parts of Iraq. in Mosul and Baghdad, Yezidis face discrimination for more than that one reason. 

 Anyway, as this division is very evident in Armenia, it’s also difficult not to consider Sultanian’s statement in that context and part of an arguably politicized process to define Yezidis as a separate ethnic group with no relation to the Kurds.

Yezidis, Armavir, Armenia © Onnik James Krikorian 1998

It’s an issue that I’ve been covering since June 1998 when I visited Armenia to examine the situation of the Kurds in the country. As most of Armenia’s Moslem Kurds fled Armenia when the conflict with Azerbaijan over Nagorno Karabakh broke out, the main body of Kurds that remain are Yezidis.

Not that it’s a definitive source, but here’s how Wikipedia defines the Yezidis.

The Yazidi (also Yezidi, Kurdish: ئێزیدی or Êzidî) are a Kurdish religious group, who represent an ancient religious sect linked to Zoroastranism and Sufism. They currently live primarily in the Nineveh Province of northern Iraq. Additional communities in Armenia, Georgia, Turkey, and Syria have been in decline since the 1990s, their members having emigrated to Europe, especially to Germany. Their religion is seen as a highly syncretic complex of local Kurdish beliefs that contains Zoroastrian elements and Islamic Sufi doctrine introduced to the area by Sheikh Adi ibn Musafir in the 12th century. The Yazidi believe in God as creator of the world, which he placed under the care of seven holy beings or angels, the chief of whom is Melek Taus, the Peacock Angel. 

In a 1992 article, Jackie Abrahamian highlighted the problem that now exists in Armenia.

Simultaneously with the 1988 Armenian uprisings, a strong Yezidi movement began in Armenia, lead by four Yezidi religious and lay leaders: Azize’ Amar, Karame’ Salon, and Sheikhs Hasane Mahmood Tamoian, and Hasane Hasanian. The goal of the Yezidi movement is to separate the Yezidis from the rest of the Moslem Kurdish population, establishing Yezidis as a separate nation.  

 

[…]  

 

Their opposers consider the Yezidi movement “absurd” and designed to take the Yezidis back to the “dark ages” as conservative religious Sheikhs practice power plays. Dr Karlen Chachani and Kurdish scholar and corresponding member of the Armenian Academy of Sciences, Shakhro Mehoyan, Charkaz Mesdoian, as well as a score of other Kurdish intellectuals who are Yezidi, argue that the Yezidi separatist movement has the full support of the Armenian government.

Interestingly, despite ‘warnings’ from Armenians not to cover the Yezidis, when I moved to Armenia in October 1998 to work for UNDP I had no choice. When Abdullah Ocalan, leader of the outlawed Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) fled to Rome, Yezidis demonstrated.

Camping outside the UN in Yerevan, they even stormed the building at one point and took the head of UNHCR hostage, dousing themselves as well as him in petrol and threatening immolation. It was reason enough for my article from Armenia published by Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty.

Visiting Armenia in June 1998 in what was most likely a recruiting drive, Mahir Welat, the PKK representative to Moscow and the CIS, affirmed, “I am a Muslim Kurd but I also honor all religions. All Kurds used to be Yezidi [Zoroastrian] in the past. Some of us were forced into becoming Muslim, but now it is our intention to return and to educate ourselves again.”

 

[…]

 

While the reasons for the increase in Kurdish nationalism among the Yezidi are complex, there is little doubt that one significant factor is a marked reluctance among many Armenians to consider Armenia anything other than a mono-ethnic country. […] With Ocalan in Rome and with the Yezidi having found a new identity desirable in a new Armenia, open support for the PKK in Armenia is currently politically expedient in that it is directed against Turkey.

The division within the Yezidi community still lingers today, with many Armenian journalists only reporting on that side of the community which declares itself as having no connection to the Kurds. And when reporting on pro-PKK demonstrations in Yerevan, despite the exodus of Armenia’s Moslem Kurds alongside the country’s ethnic Azeris, few realize that those protesting are mainly Yezidis.

Yet, interestingly enough, the American writer Thomas Goltz speaks about how Yezidis were bused in to Lachin when it was taken by Armenian forces during the Karabakh war to pretend to be those Kurds that had actually fled. Lachin and Kelbajar had been part of the short-lived Autonomous Soviet Republic of Red Kurdistan during the 1920s.

Meanwhile, so sensitive is the situation that I was even offered what I considered to be a bribe to stop writing on the Yezidis in Armenia, as detailed by a U.S. Embassy cable released by Wikileaks.

PKK activities in Armenia seem thus far to be fairly low-level, though Armenia’s Yezidi community — an ethnic minority related to Kurds by blood and language — may be receptive to PKK outreach. Among other things, we have heard reports that the PKK sends money to some Armenian Yezidi and that there are links between Yezidi communities in Armenia and Kurdish militant groups in Turkey. We have also heard that the Armenian government has made lukewarm attempts to hush a freelance journalist who reports extensively on the Yezidi and their affiliations with Kurdish militants. We believe many of these reports to be credible.

 

[…]

 

Krikorian told us that a Yerevan State University professor approached him in 2004 and asked him to take a group of students to Georgia on a reporting trip. When Krikorian agreed, he says, he was asked to name his price, which struck him as quite unusual. The professor then took out a sheaf of papers, which Krikorian recognized as his writings on the Yezidi. “Every reference to the PKK was underlined,” Krikorian said. He said the official told him that, if he were to accept YSU’s offer of employment, he would have to stop writing those articles, because the topic was a “very sensitive” one for the Armenian government. […] The professor said his friends at the MFA had told him that passportless PKK fighters were slipping through unattended pockets of Armenia’s western border, implying that there was nothing the MFA could do about it, Krikorian said. (NOTE: Professor Asatrian, who is not the professor to whom Krikorian referred, told Poloff during a separate conversation that he had heard reports of PKK militants entering Armenia through gaps in the western border, in order to receive medical treatment. END NOTE.) Unswayed, Krikorian said he declined the job offer — which he considered a bribe — and left the office.

Yezidi, Armavir, Armenia © Onnik James Krikorian 1998

The division within the Yezidi community has also prevented the small community to function as a whole, as another U.S. Embassy cable explained.

Yezidi leader Tamoyan also noted that the cultural mis-identification of Yezidis as Kurds as a major problem for the community. He said the confusion stems from the linguistic similarity between Armenian Yezidis and Kurds who both speak a Kurmanji dialect of Kurdish. This misidentification was exacerbated by the 1989 Soviet Census that counted Yezidis and Kurds as one ethnic group. According to Tamoyan, there are no more than 1,500 ethnic Kurds in Armenia, and they define themselves as separate from the Yezidi community. Tamoyan also pointed to the religious-based ethnic strife between Kurds and Yezidis in Northern Iraq over the past two years as an example of how the communities differentiate themselves. 

10. (C) However, when the Ambassador visited Aragotsotn Marz, the local Yezidi leaders were adamant that they are Kurds, ethically, culturally, and linguistically. The only point of difference between the groups is religion, they declared. The Aragotsotn Yezidis said that a group of “illiterate” Yezidi in Aragats Marz (where the majority of Yezidi live) do not understand this and believe that they are not Kurds. The Aragtosotn Marz leaders attributed this belief, at least in part, to the Soviets who they allege tried to divide and conquer minorities and established a new minority of “Yezidi” in the last Soviet census of 1989. Clearly, the matter of whether one is Kurd or Yezidi remains open for debate. […] 

[…] 

[…] (COMMENT: We were left with the impression that the divisions in the community caused by the Yezidi versus Kurd debate hampers the establishment of an effective and unified organization that can represent the interests of the Yezidi. END COMMENT)

This has also frustrated attempts to provide minority education for the Yezidis in the country. That was the topic for another article I wrote for the Institute for War and Peace Reporting (IWPR).

Yezidis in the western Aragatsotn region of Armenia have taken a dim view of government efforts, supported by the UN children’s agency, UNICEF, to bolster minority education in the republic. 

At the beginning of September, at an event staged in the Yezidi village of Alagyaz, government officials said that new textbooks in minority languages would be distributed to schools in minority-populated villages, while UNICEF said it would provide stationary and other supplies. 

Less than a month later, however, Yezidis in Alagyaz and ten surrounding villages were complaining. Their language is the Kurmanji dialect of Kurdish, but the books funded and provided by the government were instead written in Ezdiki. While the latter is still Kurdish by another name, the alphabet chosen for publication was in the unaccustomed Cyrillic alphabet instead of the more usual Latin or Arabic scripts. 

[…] 

Some experts believe that the government has only succeeded in alienating the Yezidis through its education policies. One academic from Europe speaking to IWPR on the condition of anonymity said, “The state seems to be distinctly encouraging the Ezdiki faction and has not latched on to the fact that Kurmanji and Ezdiki, which were the same language for the entire Soviet period, are still the same. The most obvious and cost-effective compromise would be to produce Ezdiki-Kurdish schoolbooks in a mutually agreed alphabet.” 

Kharatyan says that she proposed a solution such as this to resolve this conflict over language, but was threatened by both sides of the Yezidi community instead. The government has since said it will monitor the distribution of the controversial textbooks, but the Kurdistan Committee is now printing its own textbooks in the Latin script for distribution to Yezidi schools during the second half of November.

Of course, the division among Yezidis and Kurds can also be found elsewhere, including Iraqi Kurdistan, but for most academics there is little doubt that there is an ethnic, cultural, and sometimes political connection, as I detailed in an article for Geographical.

Hasan Tamoyan, deputy president of the National Union of Yezidis, is one of those who maintains that the Yezidis have no connection with the Kurds. He is also head of Yezidi language programmes at Public Radio of Armenia and, sitting in his office in Yerevan, he even goes so far as to call their language Ezdiki, denying that it’s Kurmanji, despite the presence on his desk of a Yezidi magazine from Germany written in the dialect, with almost every headline including the words ‘Kurd’ or ‘Kurdistan’. He responds with threats rather than answers to questions about Armenia’s Kurdish population or suggestions that Kurdish is spoken in the country. 

Prominent specialists on the Yezidis disagree. ‘I have met many Yezidis in Armenia who believe they are also Kurds,’ says Dr Christine Allison, a lecturer at the Institut National des Langues et Civilisations Orientales in Paris. ‘And with the exception of two villages in Iraq, Yezidis speak Kurmanji Kurdish. Their oral and material culture is typical of Kurdistan and pretty much identical to [that of] non-Yezidi Kurds.’ 

Philip Kreyenbroek, head of Iranian studies at the University of Göttingen in Germany, agrees, saying: ‘The Yezidi religious and cultural tradition is deeply rooted in Kurdish culture, and almost all Yezidi sacred texts are in Kurdish.’ 

When I relate such opinions to Tamoyan, I only succeed in making him more irate. ‘I’d like to pass this conversation on to the government,’ he says. ‘Will you be responsible for your statement? Because I will take the recording to the National Security Service [the Armenian successor to the KGB].’ 

[…] 

Two years ago, a Yezidi from the Armavir region of Armenia was killed alongside six other PKK members in the Turkish town of Batman, and there has been a notable increase recently in the number of Muslim Kurds from Turkey, Iraq and Syria who have materialised in Armenia to work alongside Yezidis. At weddings, these new Kurdish arrivals perform pro-PKK songs, while senior PKK representatives regularly visit Armenia to speak at Yezidi cultural events such as the annual pilgrimage to Shamiram, a village outside Yerevan that hosts a Yezidi monument.

Yezidi girl in Alagyaz, Armenia, stands in front of a picture of her brother killed fighting for the PKK in Turkey © Onnik James Krikorian 1998

Despite the divisions and the politics of the Yezidis in Armenia, however, there’s also something refreshing about every visit, especially in a country where 97.5 percent of the population is ethnically Armenian. It’s also why I mentioned the cultural work of one academic in my Geographical article.

Nahro Zagros, a 33-year-old ethnic Muslim Kurd, escaped Saddam Hussein’s Iraq seven years ago. Today, he’s studying for a PhD in ethnomusicology from the University of York. He has come to Armenia to conduct research into Kurdish musical tradition.

 

Each day, he strolls through Alagyaz armed with a digital recorder and an uncanny knack of being able to convince almost anyone to burst into song, often at just a moment’s notice. In the South Caucasus, where culture and tradition are still considered to be of paramount importance, that isn’t too difficult, but there are dangers. Even the most unexpected of guests are often obliged to partake in a few glasses of industrial-strength home-made vodka. Zagros, however, usually manages to avoid this trap. Partaking in food is another matter, however. As he explains, it can be considered an insult for a Muslim Kurd to refuse to eat at the table of a Yezidi.

 

Wandering from house to house in search of singers to record, Zagros finally ends up at what appears to be a cattle shed. In an adjoining room, the family that lives here is burning dung for heating. An old Yezidi man smokes a cheap cigarette by a stove erected on an earthen floor. Zagros and 75-year-old Bimbash Kochoyan are from very different worlds, but it isn’t long before the room resonates with traditional Kurdish song.

 

Zagros is spellbound and sports a customary grin. He can barely contain himself and is eager to explain why. ‘The songs are traditionally very Kurdish, but they don’t exist among the Kurds of Kurdistan,’ he says.

 

For academics such as Zagros there is something far simpler in the allure of Armenia’s Yezidis. Sitting in a room filled with Yezidi women improvising songs sung to honour their recently deceased patriarch, he is captivated. ‘The music, words and narrative are very Kurdish,’ he says. ‘It’s about how the Yezidis have no homeland to return to. They are in Armenia as visitors and this isn’t their home. On the other hand, it’s very Yezidi because it only exists among them now. ‘In fact, it’s beautiful.’

I’ve yet to upload a gallery of the photographic work I’ve done on the Yezidis in Armenia so until also see my article for Transitions Online, Being Yezidi.

Homophobia in the South Caucasus

Homophobia in the South Caucasus

The front of D.I.Y. covered in graffiti two weeks after it was firebombed, Yerevan, Armenia
© Onnik James Krikorian 2012

Osservatorio Balcani e Caucaso has just published my latest article on aborted plans to introduce legislation to prohibit ‘gay propaganda’ that might result in the ‘distorted understanding’ that gay and heterosexual relations are ‘socially equivalent’ in Armenia. The move follows the introduction of similar legislation in Russia.

“We live in Russia’s shadow,” Mamikon Hovsepian, head of the PINK Armenia NGO was quoted by media as saying. A few days later, Radio Free Europe reported that the bill was withdrawn by the police due to undisclosed ‘shortcomings’ and because such issues are ‘not a priority’ for them at present.

 

Others, such as prolific Armenian LGBT blogger Mika Artyan, were not convinced. “I didn’t even manage to write a post on the already withdrawn gay propaganda bill, but will do so post factum as this is not the end of story,” he tweeted. He also told Osservatorio Balcani e Caucaso that he believes only international media coverage of the proposed legislation, as well as domestic ridicule, prevented it from being taken further.

 

[…]

 

[…] although the Constitution provides for the protection of sexual minorities, with homosexuality decriminalized in 2003 and the government signing the United Nationals Declaration on Sexual Orientation and Gender Identity five years later, there is no legislation that specifically prohibits hate speech or protects members of the LGBT community from discrimination. Indeed, argue activists such as Artyan, playing on the phobias of the population can be convenient for the government in distracting attention away from other problems. The proposed legislation came in the wake of successful public protests to prevent a rise in bus fares.

 

“Armenia decriminalized gay male sex only because of that requirement by the Council of Europe,” he told Osservatorio, “but it was the last South Caucasus state to do so even if the first to sign some other groundbreaking documents in support of LGBT rights. The potential is there, […] but change will depend on the development of democracy and human rights in general.”

 

As mentioned in the article, it comes after quite a few high profile examples of homophobia in the country and the wider region. Last year, for example, a gay-friendly bar in Yerevan was firebombed by ultra-nationalists, and earlier this year as many as 20,000 Orthodox believers went on a pogrom-like rampage in Tbilisi in response to attempts by a handful of LGBT activists to hold an anti-homophobia event.

In a scene akin to a medieval witch-hunt, elderly women holding stinging nettles sought to thrash homosexuals, and priests wielded wooden stools to beat and smash anyone or anything they could find.

 

Two priests were among just a handful of people arrested. But human rights groups and local civil society organizations are concerned that the government is unable, or unwilling, to rein in Church power.

 

In the two decades since the country declared independence, the power and influence of the Georgian Orthodox Church appears to have increased.

 

Some activists are saying that Georgia risks resembling little more than a theocracy, while LGBT groups are already reporting a spike in the number of cases of harassment and assault.

The gay-friendly D.I.Y. bar a week before it was firebombed, Yerevan, Armenia
© Onnik James Krikorian 2012

The Caucasus Research Resource Centers (CRRC) has some interesting if alarming data on homophobia in the region:

LGBTQ issues are difficult to discuss throughout the South Caucasus. For example, this year’s International Day against Homophobia on May 17th was not without challenges in Georgia. An anti-homophobia rally in Tbilisi was violently met with thousands of anti-gay protesters, including some Orthodox priests, who succeeded in breaking through police barricades, beating and throwing stones at people thought to be supporting the rally. Similarly, in Armenia, LGBT rights activists were also met with protesters during the commemoration of the World Day of Cultural Diversity on May 21st in 2012. This blog shows that it remains difficult to discuss LGBTQ issues in the South Caucasus region, mainly due to conservative ideals in the region.

 

The 2011 CB asked one question regarding attitudes towards homosexuality-“Please tell me whether you think homosexuality can be justified or not?” The question was recoded from 10-point scale into 5-point scale, where the highest number indicated “can always be justified” and the lowest number indicated “can never be justified”. The majority in each country felt that homosexuality could never be justified (96% in Armenian, 84% in Azerbaijan and 87% in Georgia). […]

 

[…] In all three countries, attitudes towards homosexuality are relatively similar between geographic areas, sex and age groups. All of the data between groups are within the margin of sampling error of ±3. At least 4 out of 5 adults in Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan feel that homosexuality can never be justified in rural and urban areas and the capital. The same can be said for both men and women, and for people in the 18-35, 36-55, and 56+ age groups alike. Therefore, unlike in many other countries, attitudes towards homosexuality are relatively similar across geographic areas, sex and age groups.

Although there are many issues of concern in the region, it seems hard not to conclude that gay rights are fast becoming the new human rights, especially in Armenia and Georgia where previous concerns such as freedom of assembly and protest are currently not as serious as they used to be.

For more on LGBT issues in the region it’s worth following @unzippedblog on Twitter.

Tbilisi’s Armenian “Azeri Teahouse”

Tbilisi’s Armenian “Azeri Teahouse”

Chaikhana, Tbilisi, Georgia © Onnik James Krikorian 2013

Walking through Tbilisi’s Old Town, it seemed only natural to pop in to my favorite teahouse in Tbilisi. Run by ethnic Armenians from Azerbaijan, I’ve taken countless Armenian and Azerbaijani journalists to the chaikhana and with good reason — it’s a breath of fresh air in the conflict-riven South Caucasus. Alas, when I got there it was already dark so the light was only artificial and less than perfect, but anyway, some photos from tonight.

Margarita Petrosian, Chaikhana, Tbilisi, Georgia © Onnik James Krikorian 2013

Incidentally, special thanks to Azerbaijani journalist Seymur Kazimov for his article, Tea and Memories in the Caucasus, published by the Institute for War and Peace Reporting (IWPR). Without it, I and many others would probably have never found out about the teahouse.

Margarita, 55, and Alexei Petrosian, 63, decided to open the café five years ago, looking for a way to make money from their house after Alexei became ill. They filled what had been their bedroom with tables, and now sell tea for 1.50 lari (about 90 US cents) a cup. It costs two laris if you want lemon too.

 

Margarita comes from the Azerbaijani town of Ganja, which had a sizeable Armenian population until the war started in Nagorny Karabakh in 1988. She is nostalgic for the age before the fighting when Azeris and Armenians ate each others’ food, enjoyed each others’ holidays and spoke each others’ languages. Her mother-in-law was Azeri, and Margarita still enjoys serving food the way her husband’s mother taught her.

 

“She came from the Agabekov clan. Apart from making tea, my mother-in-law taught me how to cook Azeri dishes,” Margarita said.

 

[…]

 

There used to be an Azerbaijani flag on the wall of the café, but Alexei said one of the customers asked if he could have it. He said the Azeris and the Armenians here in the old town live together well, and do not mimic the problems surrounding Karabakh, which the ethnic Armenian rulers have proclaimed to be an independent state.

“In our café, we speak about everything except politics. Here we do not divide people up into nationalities,” Alexei said.

 

Customers say the easy atmosphere reminds them of Soviet times, when the whole South Caucasus was ruled from Moscow and everyone was a citizen of the same state. When they learned that this correspondent had come from Azerbaijan, they were careful to say that the war had made no difference to their friendships.

 

Albert Musaelian, for example, is a regular customer. He is an Armenian, but he loves Azeri poetry and music and has even written songs in the traditional Azeri folk style.

 

“This tea-house unites us,” he said, as he sat at a table with Azeri friends.

 

Margarita said that all the café’s customers enjoy each others’ national or religious holiday.

 

[…]

 

Her dream would be to go back to her home in Ganja and see her Azeri relatives who stayed behind when the Armenians fled, but there is little prospect of that.

Her neighbour, an Azeri woman called Fatmanisa, nodded her head.

 

“Here in Tbilisi, we share our happiness and our sadness. We always support each other,” she said.

It’s a great article and an important one too. Seymur has my respect.

Chaikhana, Tbilisi, Georgia © Onnik James Krikorian 2013

At the end of 2009 I took Radio Free Europe’s Vusala Alibayli to the teahouse, as well as another in Marneuli, to record a podcast for my Caucasus Conflict Voices project then in a publishing collaboration with Transitions Online.

Margarita grew up in Tbilisi, but she was born in Ganja, formerly Kirovabad, in Azerbaijan, during a family visit to relatives there. All her family has since left Ganja, and she can no longer visit because of her Armenian surname. But she recalls her native city fondly whenever she sees it listed on her Georgian ID card.

 

PETROSYAN: I loved Ganja, and I love it now. I love it very much!

 

Mahammad Hasan Xiyabani is a regular at Margarita’s teahouse. After a long day at work me makes his way here to have a drink and relax. Xiyabani is 45 and an ethnic Azeri from Tabriz, in Iran. He goes to Iran to visit his family three or four times in a year. He misses them very much, he says, but the teahouse helps ease his loneliness. Here he can meet with Azeris and feel like he is home.

 

XIYABANI: There is no chance for Azeris and Armenians to be together – not in Azerbaijan, nor in Armenia. But here they are living as they like – friendly. No one says anything like, “Don’t go there, that’s an Armenian teahouse!” That’s definitely not the case.

 

[…]

 

Avonik Miskaryan, 39, sells fruits and vegetables at the Marneuli bazaar. An Armenian, she conducts business in both Azerbaijani and her native language. She is surprised to be asked where and how she learned Azerbaijani.

 

MISKARYAN: How can we not learn this language? Our neighbors are Azeri. And we use this language to communicate with each other in the bazaar.

 

While relations between Armenia and Azerbaijan have been tense since the Nagorno-Karabakh war in 1993, Miskaryan says that in Marneuli Azeris and Armenians get along the same as they always have. The same appeared to hold in the teahouses here and in Tbilisi. Everywhere we went, questions about the relationship among ethnic groups were met with puzzlement and surprise.

You can listen to Vusala’s podcast below:

Incidentally, around the corner is another teahouse, but this time owned by an ethnic Azeri with an ethnic Armenian waitress serving customers. Both teahouses are definitely well worth a visit, but it’s this one that stands out the most for me. You can find it half way up Grishashvili Street near the Turkish Baths in Old Tbilisi.

Mental Health in Armenia

Mental Health in Armenia

 Psychiatric Dispensary, Kapan, Armenia © Onnik James Krikorian 2002

Aside from conflict, elections, and minorities, much of my work in Armenia focused on social vulnerability and related issues. As with some of my work in Georgia, one connected topic has been residential institutions for the socially vulnerable and also those with disabilities.

In particular, in the early 2000s I spent a lot of time at the Specialized Children’s Home in Kharberd, an institution for kids with severe mental disabilities and other handicaps, sometimes ambiguously diagnosed according to Soviet rather than Western methodologies.

The Children’s Home has come along way since the 1990s when it was more notoriously known for corruption, mistreatment, and abuse. Nevertheless, there still remains problems. In particular, Kharberd is over capacity.

In the past, upon reaching adulthood, the children were usually sent to Armenia’s psychiatric institutions where conditions and care are really bad. Kharberd’s Director refuses to do so, preferring instead to look into respite care and other options.

Some of my work from a few years back on Kharberd Children’s Home and Psychiatric Institutions in Armenia is below.